October 1st. A new month. Ahhh…
In honor of this lovely month, and being that it seems summer has finally decided to arrive, I decided that a little surfing was in order (It’s been over a month since I got in the water-WTF!?)
Sometimes I loose sight of the little things in life…but thankfully, I always remember them.
I met my Dad at the beach, and once again was reminded of the love and joy that lives within my heart, for days like this.
There is nothing I love more than surfing with my parents.
On the beach, I took a moment to meditate on 5 things that I am grateful for today, and do a little stretching.
Papa and I paddled out together, and almost immediately, like a big hug from a friend you haven’t seen in forever, the waves started lining up perfectly to greet us.
At one point, I looked over and my dad and his pal Cliff were taking off on a nice left. They dropped in, bottom turned and hustled to the nose of their boards, totally in sync with one another. I watched my dad looking back at Cliff and Cliff to my Dad, both smiling, taking in the moment.
It made my day to see that.
It seems to me, surfing almost always restores a bit of that carefree, child that lives within all of us.
I was catching so many waves, I started to feel guilty. A set came and I was the only one in position.
As I paddled, I felt the wave take my weight. As I stood up, I eased myself into a nice clean bottom turn.
I’ve rehearsed this moment in my head many times; paddle, bottom turn, walk to the nose with patience, grace and style, and so I did, more graceful and smooth as ever. The wave swift and clean, cradling me, like it was built for me. Like it was built for this first Friday morning, of October.
I could have stayed out all day, but I rode the wave all the way to the sand.
Sometimes when you catch a wave that good, you just wanna leave it at that. As if the ocean was saying, “Just a little something to remember me by…”
Until next time.