Ive got battle wounds….Ive been surfing too much.
What an absurd thing to say.
How can you possibly surf too much?
You can, but I keep on.
Waves have been so fun.
Been surfing out at the reef in Cardiff almost everyday this week, most days 2-3 times.
Feels so good.
Sometimes I need a little kickstart…But once I get in the surfing spirit, I surrender.
I become one with the ocean, the sand, the salt, the wax, the seaweed, the small swell.
My longboard. My fish.
I dig it.
I love living here.
My life has been good to me.
I am at peace, Im getting back in the spirit.
I got my priorities straight now….and were out…going surfing :)
(2nd time today)